Pruning Mature Trees
Pruning is the most common tree
maintenance procedure. Although forest trees grow quite well with only
nature's pruning, landscape trees require a higher level of care to
maintain their safety and aesthetics. Pruning should be done with an
understanding of how the tree responds to each cut. Improper pruning can
cause damage that will last for the life of the tree, or worse, shorten
the tree's life.
Reasons for Pruning
Because each cut has the potential to change the growth of
the tree, no branch should be removed without a reason. Common reasons for
pruning are to remove dead branches, to remove crowded or rubbing limbs,
and to eliminate hazards. Trees may also be pruned to increase light and
air penetration to the inside of the tree’s crown or to the landscape
below. In most cases, mature trees are pruned as a corrective or
preventive measure.
Routine thinning does not necessarily improve the health of
a tree. Trees produce a dense crown of leaves to manufacture the sugar
used as energy for growth and development. Removal of foliage through
pruning can reduce growth and stored energy reserves. Heavy pruning can be
a significant health stress for the tree.
Yet if people and trees are to coexist in an urban or
suburban environment, then we sometimes have to modify the trees. City
environments do not mimic natural forest conditions. Safety is a major
concern. Also, we want trees to complement other landscape plantings and
lawns. Proper pruning, with an understanding of tree biology, can maintain
good tree health and structure while enhancing the aesthetic and economic
values of our landscapes.
When to Prune
Most routine pruning to remove weak, diseased, or dead limbs
can be accomplished at any time during the year with little effect on the
tree. As a rule, growth is maximized and wound closure is fastest if
pruning takes place before the spring growth flush. Some trees, such as
maples and birches, tend to “bleed” if pruned early in the spring. It may
be unsightly, but it is of little consequence to the tree.
A few tree diseases, such as oak wilt, can be spread when
pruning wounds allow spores access into the tree. Susceptible trees should
not be pruned during active transmission periods.
Heavy pruning just after the spring growth flush should be
avoided. At that time, trees have just expended a great deal of energy to
produce foliage and early shoot growth. Removal of a large percentage of
foliage at that time can stress the tree.
Making Proper Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar.
The branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissue and should not be
damaged or removed. If the trunk collar has grown out on a dead limb to be
removed, make the cut just beyond the collar. Do not cut the collar.
If a large limb is to be removed, its weight should first be
reduced. This is done by making an undercut about 12 to 18 inches from the
limb’s point of attachment. Make a second cut from the top, directly above
or a few inches farther out on the limb. Doing so removes the limb,
leaving the 12- to 18-inch stub. Remove the stub by cutting back to the
branch collar. This technique reduces the possibility of tearing the bark.
Pruning Techniques
Specific types of pruning may be necessary to maintain a
mature tree in a healthy, safe, and attractive condition.
Cleaning is the removal of dead, dying, diseased,
crowded, weakly attached, and low-vigor branches from the crown of a tree.
Thinning is the selective removal of branches to
increase light penetration and air movement through the crown. Thinning
opens the foliage of a tree, reduces weight on heavy limbs, and helps
retain the tree’s natural shape.
Raising removes the lower branches from a tree in
order to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and
vistas.
Reduction reduces the size of a tree, often for
clear- ance for utility lines. Reducing the height or spread of a tree is
best accomplished by pruning back the leaders and branch terminals to
lateral branches that are large enough to assume the terminal roles (at
least one-third the diameter of the cut stem). Compared to topping,
reduction helps maintain the form and structural integrity of the tree.
How Much Should Be Pruned?
The amount of live tissue that should be removed depends on
the tree size, species, and age, as well as the pruning objectives.
Younger trees tolerate the removal of a higher percentage of living tissue
better than mature trees do. An important principle to remember is that a
tree can recover from several small pruning wounds faster than from one
large wound.
A common mistake is to remove too much inner foliage and
small branches. It is important to maintain an even distribution of
foliage along large limbs and in the lower portion of the crown.
Overthinning reduces the tree’s sugar production capacity and can create
tip-heavy limbs that are prone to failure.
Mature trees should require little routine pruning. A widely
accepted rule of thumb is never to remove more than one-quarter of a
tree’s leaf-bearing crown. In a mature tree, pruning even that much could
have negative effects. Removing even a single, large-diameter limb can
create a wound that the tree may not be able to close. The older and
larger a tree becomes, the less energy it has in reserve to close wounds
and defend against decay or insect attack. The pruning of large mature
trees is usually limited to removal of dead or potentially hazardous
limbs.
Wound Dressings
Wound dressings were once thought to accelerate wound
closure, protect against insects and diseases, and reduce decay. However,
research has shown that dressings do not reduce decay or speed closure and
rarely prevent insect or disease infestations. Most experts recommend that
wound dressings not be used. If a dressing must be used for cosmetic
purposes, then only a thin coating of a nontoxic material should be
applied.
Hiring an Arborist
Pruning large trees can be dangerous. If pruning involves
working above the ground or using power equipment, it is best to hire a
professional arborist. An arborist can determine the type of pruning
necessary to improve the health, appearance, and safety of your trees. A
professional arborist can provide the services of a trained crew, with all
of the required safety equipment and liability insurance.
There are a variety of things to look for when selecting an
arborist:
- membership in professional organizations such as the International
Society of Arboriculture (ISA), the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA),
or the American Society of Consulting Arborists (ASCA)
- certification through ISA’s Certified Arborist program
- proof of insurance
- list of references (don’t hesitate to check)
Avoid using the services of any tree company that
- advertises topping as a service provided; knowledgeable arborists
know that topping is harmful to trees and is not an accepted practice
- uses tree climbing spikes to climb trees that are being pruned;
climbing spikes can damage trees, and their use should be limited to
trees that are being removed
This brochure is one in a series published by the
International Society of Arboriculture as part of its Consumer Information
Program.
Developed by the International Society of Arboriculture
(ISA), a nonprofit organization supporting tree care research around the
world and dedicated to the care and preservation of shade and ornamental
trees. For further information, contact ISA, P.O. Box 3129, Champaign,
IL 61826-3129, U.S.
E-mail inquiries:
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/isa@isa-arbor.com
©
1995, 2004 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED JULY 2005